In the northeast corner of peninsular Malaysia, bordering Thailand, is the state of Kelantan. Few tourists head this far north up the east coast, but it's a fascinating journey for those interested in seeing Malaysia as it might have been without so many foreign influences. The state is populated mostly by Malays and Bumiputeras, with only tiny factions of Chinese and Indian residents and almost no traces of British colonialism. Not surprisingly, Kelantan is the heart of traditional Islam in modern Malaysia. Although the government in KL constructs social policies based upon a more open and tolerant Islam, religious and government leaders in Kelantan can be counted on for putting forth a strong Muslim ideal where they feel they may have influence.
It is important to note that Kelantan borders Thailand's southern provinces, where since 2004 civil unrest, including bombings in public places, has led to hundreds of deaths of Thai citizens and several international tourists. I advise travelers to use caution in this area and refrain from speaking openly about politics and religion.
Kota Bharu, the state capital, is the heart of the region. The area is rich in Malay cultural heritage, as evidenced in the continuing interest in arts like silat (Malay martial arts), wayang kulit (puppetry), gasing (top spinning), and wau (kite flying). For the record, you won't find too much traditional music or dance, as women are forbidden from entertaining in public. Also beware that the state has strict laws controlling the sale of alcoholic beverages, which cannot be purchased in stores, hotels, or most restaurants. You will not find a single bar. Chinese restaurants, however, are permitted to sell beer to their patrons but will probably not allow you to take any away.
If you take a side trip from Terengganu, plan to stay overnight. An outstation taxi from Kuala Terengganu can bring you on the 3-hour drive for around RM100 ($28/£14). Stay at the Renaissance, managed by Marriott; it's practically the only hint of the 21st century in all of Kelantan. Rooms are exactly what you would expect from an international business-class hotel chain, but cost a mere RM225 ($63/£32) for double occupancy. Contact the Renaissance at Kota Sri Mutiara, Jalan Yahya Petra (tel. 09/746-2233; fax 09/746-1122; www.marriott.com). You'll find the Kelantan Tourist Information Centre at Jalan Sultan Ibrahim (tel. 09/748-5534).
Centered around the Padang Merdeka are five of the most significant sights in Kota Bharu, run by the Kelantan State Museum Corporation. They are all open Saturday to Thursday 8:30am to 4:45pm, and closed on Fridays. At the Istana Jahar (adults RM2/60¢/30p, children RM1/30¢/15p), Kelantan traditional costumes, antiques, and musical instruments are displayed in context of their usage in royal ceremonies. Istana Batu (adults RM2/60¢/30p, children RM1/30¢/15p) takes you through a photographic journey of Kelantan's royal family and offers a peek at their lifestyle through the past 200 years. The Balai Getam Guri handicraft museum (adults RM2/60¢/30p, children RM1/30¢/15p) showcases the finest in Kelantanese textiles, basketry, embroidery, batik printing, and silversmithing. You'll also be able to buy crafts in the shops within the compound. The Islamic Museum (Muzium Islam; adults RM2/60¢/30p, children RM1/30¢/15p) teaches everything you might want to know about Islam in this state, with a focus on Islamic arts and Kelantan's role in spreading Islam in the region. Finally there is the War Museum (Bank Kerapu; adults RM2/60¢/30p, children RM1/30¢/15p), which tells the story of Kelantan during World War II in a 1912 bank building that survived the invasion.
The State Museum (Muzium Negeri) is located on Jalan Hospital (tel. 09/744-4666; adults RM2/60¢/30p, children RM1/30¢/15p; Sat-Thurs 8:30am-4:45pm). It's been a long time since this old building served as the colonial land office, but in 1990 major renovations gave it a new life. It now houses the Kelantan Art Gallery, including ceramics, traditional musical instruments, and cultural pastimes exhibits.
For great local handicrafts shopping, visitors to Kelantan need go no farther than Jalan P.C.B., the road that leads to P.C.B. beach from Kota Bharu's Chinatown area. Hire a taxi through your hotel's concierge -- it's best to hire by the hour; it should only cost about RM15 ($4.20/£2.10) per hour. Your driver will stop at every roadside factory, showroom, shop, and crafts house (the place crawls with them!) and you'll satisfy every shopping itch that needs scratching. These are all small cottage industries run out of folks' homes, so while some places actually have shops, many are very informal "look sees." You can watch ladies weaving songket cloth (fine cotton cloth with interwoven patterns in bright colors and gold or silver threads) on enormous wooden looms, see how kites are made by hand, and learn techniques for painting and dyeing batik cloth, along with many other crafts activities that go on in this area. Your driver can also take you to other shopping places in town for local crafts. The prices are very good -- far cheaper than in KL.
