Introduction to Kvarner Gulf

Experiencing all the charms of the Kvarner Gulf region requires a strategically orchestrated campaign. Some visitors to Opatija ensconce themselves in 19th-century villas, emerging only to luxuriate in the sun and surf by day and dine and dance by moonlight. Others hop-scotch among Kvarner's many islands, where yachts from all over Europe dock at marinas in the shadow of ancient waterfront buildings.

Ecologically savvy tourists can explore Mount Ucka, which looms over the Opatija Riviera and offers hikers the opportunity to wander for hours among its wonders. Others prefer the rocky hills of Cres Island, where rugged paths monitored by grazing sheep run a dizzying course to deserted azure coves.

It's fairly simple to visit all the major mainland towns that dot the Kvarner coast by driving the coastal highway from Opatija to Senj, but it's much trickier to coordinate ferry connections to, from, and between the islands. Indeed, except for the facilities along the Opatija Riviera, the region's infrastructure is uneven at best, though tourism services on the offshore islands are improving. Visitors to the mainland can expect a broad range of accommodations and services, while island hoppers will find large package-hotels, a respectable selection of campgrounds (including many naturist colonies), and modest family-run hotels, usually in old homes or simple villas.