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You'll need some hot coffee while wandering the streets of La Palma. Café d Café (Calle Gerarado Barrios 40; tel. 503/2335-9190) makes the best cup I found and is a bright, pleasant place with pastoral murals adorning the walls. It is on the left as you enter the town from the south at the v-junction just before the plaza. Soni´s Cake Panaderia y Pasteleria (2a Av. Sur; tel. 503/258-0125) has a great selection of pastries, though the decor is a little soulless, with fast-food-style seating.

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