Hotels

Because hotel prices are unusually high (especially for Hungary) in the Balaton region, and because many local families rent out a room or two in summer, I especially recommend private rooms as the lodging of choice in this area. Most are clean and will give you the opportunity to get to know the local population. You can reserve a room through a local tourist office (addresses are listed below under each town) or you can just look for the ever-present SZOBA KIADÓ (OR ZIMMER FREI) signs hanging on most front gates in the region. When you take a room without using a tourist agency as the intermediary, prices are generally negotiable. In the height of the season, you shouldn't have to pay more than 8,000 Ft ($43/£23) for a double room within reasonable proximity of the lake.

Many budget travelers pitch their tents in lakeside campgrounds all around the lake. Campgrounds are generally quite inexpensive, and their locations are well marked on maps. All the campgrounds have working facilities, but are probably not as clean as many people are accustomed to.

Keszthely

The center of Keszthely's summer scene, just like that of every other settlement on Lake Balaton, is down by the water on the "strand." Keszthely's beachfront is dominated by several large hotels. Regardless of whether or not you're a guest, you can rent windsurfers, boats, and other water-related equipment from these hotels.

A good hotel bet is the 232-room Danubius Hotel Helikon (tel. 8/388-9600; www.danubiusgroup.com). The small but comfortable guest rooms offer balconies overlooking Lake Balaton and have all the necessary amenities. The resort also has an indoor swimming pool, sauna, massage parlor, and outdoor sun deck. Rates run from 17,000 Ft to 30,000 Ft ($92-$162/£48-£85) for a double, including breakfast. Numerous special packages and off-season rates are available.

Szigliget

Szoloskert Panzió (tel. 8/746-1264) on Vadrózsa utca, might be the best option for a stay, given its close proximity to the beach, which is just 387m (1,270 ft.) away. Situated on the hillside amid lush terraces of grapes, the pension is open only in summer. A double is 8,500 Ft ($46/£24) and includes breakfast.

The Southern Shore

Siófok is wall-to-wall with tourists during the summer months, mostly Hungarians. You will find a wide variety of lodging options including large hotels and resorts from the Gold Coast to the east of the center of town, and from the Silver Coast (Ezüstpart) to the west. Additional accommodations can be found on the city's website at www.siofokportal.com.

We recommend pampering yourself at a "wellness center" for a few days. The Hotel Azúr, Vitorlás u. 11 (tel. 84/501-400; www.hotelazur.hu) is one of the most comfortable, plush, and welcoming hotel and wellness centers in town at the moment, but heavy competition is being built continually. They have 222 air-conditioned rooms, many with balconies. The pools are large, and it has a nice fitness room, sauna, massage club, Finnish saunas, beauty salon, and thermal pools. The whole complex is extremely tasteful. Rates are 140€ ($182/£96) in summer and 88€ ($115/£60) in winter for a double room. Breakfast and all taxes are included.

The Hotel Residence, Erkel Ferenc u. 49 (tel. 84/506-840; with its 56 rooms also has an extensive list of services, including massages, gyms, baths, and aromatherapy. It is located 150m (492 ft.) from the beach. Rates are 125€ ($163/£86) in summer and 105€ ($137/£72) in winter for a double room with breakfast included. Note that the room rate has a 15% additional fee for Friday and Saturday night during high season. The hotel has a good-size indoor swimming pool, a sauna, a massage club, Finnish saunas, a beauty salon, and thermal pools.