Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Malaysia Airlines (tel. 1300/883-000; www.malaysiaairlines.com) and AirAsia (tel. 1300/889-933; www.airasia.com) make Langkawi very convenient from either mainland Malaysia or Singapore. In addition, Singapore Airlines also flies to Langkawi.

The best thing to do is prearrange a shuttle pickup from your resort; otherwise you can grab a taxi out in front of the airport. To Pantai Cenang or Pantai Tengah, the fare should be about RM20 ($5.60/£2.80), while to the farther resorts at Tanjung Rhu and Datai Bay it will be as high as RM40 and RM50 ($11/£5.60 and $14/£7), respectively.

By Train -- Taking the train can be a bit of a hassle because the nearest stop (in Alor Setar) is quite far from the jetty to the island, requiring a cab transfer. Still, if you prefer rail, hop on the overnight train from KL (the only train), which will put you in to Alor Setar at around 7am. Just outside the train station you can find the taxi stand, with cabs to take you to the Kuala Kedah jetty.

By Bus -- To be honest, I don't really recommend using this route. If you're coming from KL, the bus ride is long and uncomfortable, catching the taxi transfer to the jetty can be problematic, and by the time you reach the island you'll need a vacation from your vacation. Fly or use the train. If you're coming from Penang, the direct ferry is wonderfully convenient.

By Ferry -- From the jetty at Kuala Kedah, there are about five companies that provide ferry service to the island (trip time: about 1 hr. and 45 min.; cost: RM18/$5/£2.50). Ferries let you off at the main ferry terminal in Kuah, where you can hop a taxi to your resort for RM20 to RM50 ($5.60-$14/£2.80-£7).

If you're coming from Penang, the ferry is the way to go. Bahagia Express has two early-morning speedboats from Weld Quay in Georgetown for RM45 one-way ($13/£6.30) and RM85 round-trip ($24/£12). Call them in Penang at tel. 04/263-1943 or visit their office across from the clock tower, just next to the main tourism board office. If you're heading from Langkawi to Penang, you can call Bahagia in Langkawi at tel. 04/966-0521.

Visitor Information

The MTB office is unfortunately situated in Kuah town on Jalan Persiaran Putra, far from the beach areas. For specific queries, you can call them at tel. 04/966-7789. If you're arriving by plane, there's another MTB office at the airport (tel. 04/955-7155).

Getting Around

By Taxi -- Taxis generally hang around at the airport, the main jetty, the taxi stand in Kuah, and at some major hotels. From anywhere in between, your best bet is to ask your hotel's concierge to call a taxi for you. Keep in mind, if you're going as far as one side of the island to the other, your fare can go as high as RM50 ($14/£7).

Car & Motorcycle Rental -- At the airport and from agents in the complex behind the main jetty, car rentals can be arranged starting at RM80 ($22/£11) per day. This is for the standard, no-frills model -- actually, mine was more reminiscent of some of the junkers I drove throughout college, but it still got me around. Insurance policies are lax, as are rental regulations. My rental guys seemed more concerned with my passport documents than with my driver's license. If you're out on the beach at Cenang or Tengah, a few places rent jeeps and motorcycles from RM80 ($22/£11) per day and RM30 ($8.40/£4.20) per day, respectively. Pick a good helmet.

By Foot -- The main beaches at Cenang and Tengah can be walked quite nicely; however, don't expect to be able to walk around to other parts of the island.

Fast Facts

The only major bank branches are located far from the beach areas, in Kuah town, mostly around the blocks across the street from the Night Hawker Center (off Jalan Persiaran Putra), or at the airport. Money changers keep long hours out at Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah, but for other resorts you'll have to change your money at the resort itself. Along the Pantai Cenang and Pantai Tengah main road, you'll find at least a half-dozen small Internet places.