If you're out at one of the more secluded resorts, chances are you'll stay there for most of your meals. However, if you're at Pantai Cenang or Pantai Tengah, I strongly recommend taking a stroll down to Champor-Champor, just across the road in the Pelangi Resort (tel. 04/955-1449), which serves creative dinners -- a local roti canai served like a pizza, and local fish doused in sweet sauces. Everything is incredibly fresh, wildly delicious, and amazingly inexpensive. As for decor, the imaginative catchall beach-shack atmosphere really relaxes. After dinner, hang around the bar for the best fun on the island. Because Langkawi is an official duty-free port, one beer costs a wee RM4 ($1.10/50p)! If you're in Kuah town looking for something good to eat, the best local dining experience can be found at the evening hawker stalls just along the waterfront near the taxi stand. A long row of hawkers cook up every kind of local favorite, including seafood dishes. You can't get any cheaper or more laid-back. After dinner, from here it's easy to flag down a taxi back to your resort.