The Romans, recognizing Laon's strategic value, had it fortified. Vandals, Burgundians, Franks, and many others later besieged it. German troops entered in 1870 and in the summer of 1914, holding it until the end of World War I. Medieval ramparts still surround the town. They appear to have survived intact from the Middle Ages and provide a ready-made itinerary for touring Laon. They aren't sound enough to be climbed on and must be admired from below.
You don't have to huff and puff as you head from Laon's Basse Ville to its Haute Ville, thanks to a cable-operated tram, Poma (tel. 03-23-79-07-59), that shuttles passengers up and down the hill at 2 1/2-minute intervals. It departs from the rail station on place de la Gare and ascends to the Hôtel-de-Ville on place du Général-Leclerc. It operates Monday through Saturday 7am to 8pm. The cost is 1€ ($1.45) one-way. After visiting the cathedral, stroll down pedestrian-only rue Châtelaine, Laon's major shopping street.
