Laos is a forgotten land. Most conversations about traveling to Southeast Asia focus on exploring Bangkok, finding the perfectly deserted white-sand beach, or visiting the temples at Angkor Wat. Talk rarely drifts to Laos. Many people may not know it's a viable travel option, much less what there is to see and do here. Part of this ignorance is a result of the shroud of Laos's communist government, which became politically and economically isolated after taking power in 1975. An air of mystery then drifted over the country.
In recent years, more light has shined on Laos, and the world is slowly discovering what the country and its people have to offer. Following in the footsteps of its more prosperous neighbors, Laos is making a concerted effort to build its fledgling tourism industry. One of the poorest countries in the world, Laos's designation by the United Nations as a "least-developed country" ensures an influx of money from both foreign governments and nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) alike.
Although some of this aid money goes to sustain the donor (case in point: the ubiquitous shiny white Range Rovers seen throughout the country), much of it's spent on developing the country's infrastructure. While improving, the roads are still primitive by Western standards -- which means getting from point A to point B is, more often than not, an adventure. But for the stout of heart (and iron of stomach), these adventures are part of Laos's allure -- they'll take you to places that are well worth some minor discomfort.
Vientiane, a perennial candidate for the "sleepiest capital in the world" crown, may be shocking to some. But a few days spent wandering the streets and watching the sun set over the Mekong makes a good introduction to "Lao time." A couple hours north of Vientiane, you'll find Vang Vieng, a backpacker town set on the Nam Song River. Surrounded by gorgeous karst peaks, Vang Vieng is a great base for kayaking, trekking, and caving. Further north lies Luang Prabang, ancient capital and UNESCO National Heritage Site. With its almost three dozen temples, French colonial architecture, and rich history, Luang Prabang is a magical town and not to be missed. In the far north, the Nam Ha Biodiversity Conservation Area, in Luang Namtha, offers off-the-beaten-path adventures. The pre-Angkorian temple Wat Phou sits in the southern province of Champasak. Finally, remnants of an even older civilization are in evidence at the mysterious Plain of Jars, in the heart of Xieng Khouang province.
Sixty percent of Lao people are practicing Buddhists, and that fact colors every facet of life. Temples and stupas dominate the architecture of even the smallest village, and you're sure to spot groups of monks in colorful robes on their early-morning pintabat, or alms rounds, especially in Luang Prabang. Buddhist acceptance and compassion play an important part in Lao culture; arguments are the exception, and the sangha, or monastic community, fosters a strict moral code. Even the shortest visit to Laos offers unique insight into Buddhist culture.
With recent infrastructure development and rising tourism, many fear for the natural and cultural resources of this peaceful land-locked nation. If Laos follows neighboring Thailand's model, as it does in many areas, its forests and waterways may be further exploited and, by packaging tourism for mass consumption, ethnic villages may become human zoos. Working with United Nations agencies, the Lao government is taking steps to see that rural development proceeds slowly in order to protect these vital resources.
Laos is a place to tread lightly, but foreign travelers are made quite welcome and encouraged to do their part to preserve and participate in cultural practices. The beauty of Laos exists not only along the Mekong at sunset, but also in smiles at the market or impromptu Lao lessons on the street corner, things that are easily missed if you're in a hurry. It's an enchanting land that demands you slow your pace to match its own, and even the shortest visit might add tranquillity to your travels.
