In Depth

The Lay of the Land

Comprising 147,201 sq. km (57,408 sq. miles), roughly the size of Great Britain or the state of Utah, Laos shares borders with China and Myanmar in the north and the northwest, Cambodia in the south, Thailand in the west, and Vietnam in the east. The country is divided into 16 provinces. Seventy percent of its land is mountain ranges and plateaus, and with an estimated population of nearly 5.7 million, Laos is one of the most sparsely populated countries in Asia. Natural landmarks include the Annamite Mountains along the border with Vietnam, as well as the Mekong River, which flows from China and along Laos's border with Thailand. About 55% of the landscape is pristine tropical forest, sheltering such rare and wild animals as elephants, leopards, the Java mongoose, panthers, gibbons, and black bears.

A Look at the Past

Laos can trace its history as a unified state to the Kingdom of Lane Xang Hon Khao ("one million elephants under a white parasol"). Formed in 1353 by an exiled prince named Fa Ngum, its capital was Muang Xiang Thong, later renamed Luang Prabang, or "Great Prabang," in honor of a gold Buddha image (prabang) given to the kingdom by the court at Angkor. For 300 years, Lane Xang was an important and powerful trading center, occupying present-day Laos as well as parts of northern Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia.

In 1707, a secession crisis caused the kingdom to split into three smaller principalities: Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and Champassak. Over the next 100 years, Siam gradually established domination over these mini-kingdoms, sacking Vientiane in 1828 after a rebellion by their handpicked king.

Toward the end of the 19th century, Siamese hegemony was replaced by French rule. By 1907, through treaty as well as force, Siam was obliged to cede all lands east of the Mekong to the French, who in turn united this territory and named it Laos.

World War II saw the occupation of French Indochina by the Japanese, who forced King Sisavangvong to declare Laos's independence in 1945. Japan's surrender later that year created a power vacuum, which the French and the recently organized Lao Issara ("Free Laos") movement, headed by former prime minister Prince Phetsarath, hoped to fill. Early the next year, the French defeated the combined forces of the Laos Issara and Vietminh, and Prince Phetsarath, along with his half-brothers Prince Souvanna Phouma and Prince Souphannavong, set up a government-in-exile in Thailand.

Over the next 7 years, the French gradually granted sovereignty to Laos, culminating in full independence in 1953. During this period, Souvanna Phouma returned to Laos to negotiate with the French, while Souphannavong (the "Red Prince") set up the Lao Patriotic Front (widely known as the Pathet Lao) in northwestern Vietnam. Accompanying invading Vietminh forces, the Pathet Lao soon established a stronghold in the northeastern town of Sam Neua.

The late 1950s and early 1960s saw numerous attempts at coalition building between the neutralists, rightists, and communists mediated by Prince Phetsarath, but these governments all collapsed. The Second Geneva Convention held in 1961 and 1962 re-established Laos's neutrality and formed another coalition government under Souvanna Phouma. This one failed as well and the country descended into civil war. The Pathet Lao, with help from North Vietnamese troops still in Laos in violation of the Geneva Conventions, took control over most of eastern and northeastern Laos.

As the civil war and the wider Indochina conflict intensified, the U.S. began its secret bombing campaign over eastern Laos, targeting communist bases and the Ho Chi Minh Trail. From 1964 to 1973, the U.S. dropped more tonnage of bombs on Xieng Khouang, Huaphan, and Phongsali provinces than were dropped on the whole of Europe during World War II. It is estimated that an average of one bombing run was flown every 8 minutes for 9 years.

With the U.S. trying to end its involvement in the region, a ceasefire was reached in 1973, and by 1975, with the U.S. fully withdrawn, the whole of Laos fell to the Pathet Lao. The Lao People's Democratic Republic (LPDR) was formed with Kaysone Phomvihane, a longtime behind-the-scenes communist organizer, installed as prime minister and Prince Souphannavong as president. Draconion political and economic policies followed, including the relocation of many members of the previous government, including the royal family, into "re-education camps" (the king died within 4 years). An additional 10% of the population fled the country, with an estimated 250,000 eventually settling in the U.S.

During the 1980s and 1990s, progressively more liberalized economic policies were introduced to stir the stagnant economy, producing a more capitalist system. Tourism was also embraced, as the government could not ignore the tourist boom occurring throughout Southeast Asia, especially in neighboring Thailand. Concerted governmental efforts, as well as improved relations with Thailand and the resultant Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge connecting Nong Khai and Vientiane, have helped Laos court the tourist dollar. While only an estimated 33,000 travelers visited Laos in 1991, over one million arrived in 2005, bringing in almost US$150 million and making tourism one of the leading sources of foreign exchange.

Unfortunately, the relaxation of economic policies has not gone hand in hand with the easing of political controls. Although they have been inept at implementing strict socialist doctrine, the communist People's Revolutionary Party retains a stranglehold on power to this day.

The Lao People & Culture

In a recent study, a group of Russian ethnologists estimated that there are more than 100 distinct ethnic groups in Laos, but it is commonly believed that Laotians fall into 68 different groups. Only 47 groups have been fully researched and identified; sadly, many are disappearing by attrition or intermarriage. All Lao ethnicities fit into one of three categories. The lowlanders are Lao Loum, the majority group, who live along the lower Mekong and in Vientiane. The Lao Theung, low mountain dwellers, live on mountain slopes, and the Lao Soung are the hill tribes, or montagnards. Eighty percent of the population lives in villages or small hamlets, practicing subsistence farming.

The earliest Lao religions were animist, and most hill tribes still practice this belief, often in combination with Buddhism. In minority villages, you'll see elaborate spirit gates, small structures of bamboo and wood often depicting weapons to protect the village (tread lightly if you come across one of these markers, as they are of great significance; touching or even photographing them is a major faux pas). Buddhism predominates, though, and 60% to 80% of all Laotians are practicing Theravada Buddhists. In the morning, monks walk the streets collecting food or alms, eagerly given by the Laotians, who believe it will aid them in the next life. Laotians worship regularly and can often be seen making temple visits. Most young males spend at least 3 months in a wat, or monastery, usually around the time of puberty or before they marry. Impressive religious art and architecture are created in a singular Lao style, particularly the "standing" or "praying for rain" Buddha, upright with hands pointing straight down at the earth.

Music and dance are integral to the Lao character, and you'll get a taste of it during your stay. Folk or khaen music is played with a reed mouth organ, often accompanied by a boxed string instrument. The lamvong is the national folk dance, in which participants dance in concentric circles. Don't miss a Baci ceremony, in which a circle of celebrants chant and sing to honor or bless an event.

Laotians are friendly and easygoing, but you might find it hard to make a close friend. Language will usually be a barrier. Solo travelers probably have the best chance of making entry into society, and any effort with the Lao language goes a long way. While Laos suffered brutally throughout its colonial history and most horrifically during the Vietnam War, the Lao people want to move on to peace and prosperity rather than dwell on the past. It's very unlikely that an American will be approached with recrimination, but memories are still fresh. Lao people still deal with war fallout literally and figuratively, a result of the unexploded bombs (UXO) that litter 50% of the country.

Etiquette

The Lao are generally tolerant people, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First, upon entering a temple or wat, you must always remove your shoes. There will usually be a sign, but a good rule of thumb is to take them off before mounting the last flight of stairs. You should also take off your shoes before entering a private home, unless told otherwise.

Dress modestly. It's unusual to see bare Lao skin above the elbow or even above the midcalf. Longer shorts and even sleeveless tops are permissible for foreigners of both sexes, but short shorts or skirts and bare bosoms and navels will cause stares and possibly offense, especially in a wat.

Avoid public displays of affection between men and women. Remember that monks are not permitted to touch women or even to speak directly to them anywhere but inside a temple; therefore, women should never try to shake hands with or even hand something directly to a monk. On buses, you'll find that Lao people will change seats so that monks sit only near men.

The traditional greeting (also a gesture of thanks and farewell) is called the nop or wai, a slight bow performed with hands in a prayer position. There are many subtleties to the gesture, but best to just return the greeting if you're given one.

The head is considered the most sacred part of the body, while the feet are the lowliest. Therefore, do not casually touch another person's head or even nonchalantly tussle the hair of a child. Don't sit with your legs crossed or otherwise point your feet at something or someone, especially Buddha images. As in most cultures, pointing with the finger is also considered rude; Laotians often use a palms-up hand gesture when signifying direction or indicating a person or thing. If you are seated on the floor, men may sit with the legs crossed, but women should tuck them to one side.

Lao people take a gentle approach to human relationships. A person showing violence or ill temper is regarded with surprise and disapproval. A calm approach will take you further. Patient persistence and a smile always win out, especially when haggling. It is important to haggle, of course, but just one or two go-rounds are usually enough, and "no" means no.