Fast Facts

American Express -- The country's one Amex representative is Diethelm Travel, Namphu Square, Setthathirat Road, Vientiane (tel. 021/213-833 or 021/215-920; www.diethelmtravel.com).

Business Hours -- With a few exceptions, hours are 8:30am to noon and 1:30 to 5pm Monday through Friday, 8am to noon on Saturday. Restaurants are open from about 11am to 2pm and 6 to 10pm daily; many are closed for lunch on Sunday.

Drug Laws -- Opium is openly grown in northeast Laos and is easily available, as is marijuana. Neither is legal, and although you might see many travelers indulging, it is highly recommended that you don't. You could face high fines or jail if you're caught.

Electricity -- Laos runs on 220-volt electrical currents. Plugs are two-pronged, with either round or flat prongs. If you're coming from the U.S. and you must bring electrical appliances, bring your own converter and adapter. Outside of Vientiane and Luang Prabang, electricity is sketchy, and sometimes available for only a few hours a day. A surge protector is a must for laptops.

Embassies -- U.S.: Thatdam Bartholonie Road, Vientiane (tel. 021/267-000; fax 021/212-584; http://vientiane.usembassy.gov). Australia: Nehru Road, Bane Phonsay, Vientiane (tel. 021/413-600; www.laos.embassy.gov.au). The Australian embassy also assists nationals of Canada, New Zealand, and the U.K.

Emergencies -- In Vientiane, dial tel. 191 for police, tel. 190 for fire, and tel. 195 for an ambulance. For medical evacuation, call Lao Westcoast Helicopter Company (tel. 021/512-023), in Vientiane.

Hospitals -- Medical care in Laos is primitive by Western standards. For major problems, most foreigners choose to hop the border to Thailand for the Nong Khai Wattana General Hospital (just over the Friendship Bridge). In an emergency, call tel. 66-42/465-201. Vientiane has one 24-hour International Medical Clinic, Mahosot Hospital, on Fa Ngum Road at the Mekong riverbank (tel. 021/214-022). For emergency evacuation, call Lao Westcoast Helicopter Company (tel. 021/512-023), in Vientiane.

Internet Access -- You can find Internet cafes in the main tourist towns. The cheapest service is found in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, where connections are generally fast. Wireless access is now available in both cities, but connections are slow.

Language -- The national language of Laos is Lao, which is similar to Thai. Many people understand Thai, and in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, many speak English. A rare few also speak Russian and French, and Mandarin Chinese is growing concurrently with the Chinese population (mostly in the north).

Liquor Laws -- There are no real liquor laws in Laos, but most bars refuse to admit patrons under the age of 18. Bars usually close around midnight.

Mail -- A letter or postcard should take about 10 days to reach the U.S. Overseas postage runs about 33,000 kip (US$3.30/£1.80) for 100g, and up to 107,000 kip (US$11/£5.90) for 500g. Postcards are 4,000 kip (US40¢/£0.20). The mail service is unreliable, however, so if you're sending something important, use an express-mail service. FedEx (tel. 021/223-278) and DHL (tel. 021/216-830) have offices in the major cities.

Safety -- Buddhist Laos is an extremely safe country by any standard. Violent or even petty crime is not a big risk for tourists. There have been rare instances of robbery or rape in remote areas, however. Thus, solo travelers should take care when off the beaten path, even on a day hike. Some of the country's highways, like Route 13 near Kasi and Route 7 in the northeast, have seen rebel and bandit attacks in the past. Although attacks usually target locals, not foreigners, ask around before going too far afield. Of course, petty crime does exist. Watch your belongings, and don't leave valuables in your hotel rooms. When trekking in the north near the Plain of Jars or in the south around the Ho Chi Minh Trail, beware of unexploded bombs. Don't stray into remote areas, and don't touch anything on the ground.

Telephones -- The international country code for Laos is 856. International calls are charged at a flat 2,000 kip (US20¢/£0.10) rate. There are just 300 phone booths in the whole country, and only a few can make international calls. Most newer hotels have international direct dialing at surcharges of about 10%. Collect calls are impossible, and the long-distance companies haven't made it to Laos yet. Internet cafes often have Internet phone service at 2,000 kip (US20¢/£0.10) per minute and charge 2,000 kip (US20¢/£0.10) for callback service.

Phone booths in Laos accept only prepaid phone cards, even for local calls. You can buy phone cards at the post office, telephone office, and minimarts. Laos has no coins.

Mobile phones have come to Laos. If you have a GSM phone with a replaceable SIM card, you can arrange prepaid service in any telecom outlet in the country. Coverage is surprisingly extensive. Lao Telecom (www.laotel.com) and Tango (tel. 021/253-001; www.tangolao.com) are the best and offer a flat international rate of 2,000 kip (US20¢/£0.10) per minute.

Time Zone -- Laos is 7 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, in the same zone as Bangkok. That makes it 12 hours ahead of the U.S. Eastern Standard Time during the winter months, and 3 hours behind Sydney.

Tipping -- Tipping has arrived in Laos, particularly in Vientiane. Feel free to tip bellhops, chauffeurs, and tour guides, and to leave 5% to 10% or round up your bill in upscale restaurants. Foreign currency, especially U.S. dollars, is appreciated.

Toilets -- You'll find Western toilets (sit-down style) in most hotels for foreigners. Out in the boonies, it's mostly the Asian-style "squatty-potty" toilets. Bring your own toilet paper; sanitary hand wipes or lotions are a good idea, too. You'll notice a bowl and a pail of water nearby for flushing (put two or three buckets in). On rural roads, buses just pull to the side for bathroom breaks. In villages, find a convenient tree.

Water -- Drink only boiled or bottled water, available everywhere for 1,000 kip (US10¢/£0.06). Be wary of ice in any but the finest restaurants. Some people even use boiled or bottled water for tooth brushing.