Side Trips

Tiwanaku

A visit to Tiwanaku will take you back in time to an impressive city built by an extremely technologically advanced pre-Inca society. The Tiwanaku culture is believed to have lasted for 28 centuries, from 1600 B.C. to A.D. 1200. In this time, they created some of the most impressive stone monoliths in the world, developed a sophisticated irrigation system, and gained an advanced understanding of astronomy and the workings of the sun. Their territory spread from northern Argentina and Chile through Bolivia to the south of Peru. These people never came into contact with the Incas. By the time the Incas made it to Peru, a 100-year drought had ravaged the Titicaca area. The Tiwanaku people had long ago left the region in small groups and moved to different areas in the Altiplano or valleys.

When you visit Tiwanaku, you will first stop in at the museum, where you can observe firsthand the magnificence of the ceramics, monoliths, and figurines found at the site. The exhibits will help you understand a bit of the history of this culture. Armed with your new Tiwanaku knowledge, you can then head out to the site itself, where you'll often have to use your imagination. The Incas and the Spaniards destroyed the site while searching for gold and silver. Even the most respected archaeologists disagree on the meanings of the monoliths and the sun gate. But when you actually see these impressive structures firsthand, you can't help but stand in awe and wonderment of the amazing achievements of this pre-Columbian society. Unlike Machu Picchu, which feels more temporary and modern, here you gain a much deeper insight into the daily life and rituals of the people who inhabited this area for thousands of years. Highlights of the site include the Semi-Underground Temple, which is decorated with stones carved in the shape of different heads from around the world; the Kalassaya, the main temple area of the site and believed to be dedicated to the sun; and the Akapana (pyramid), believed to be an observatory and a temple to worship the sky. The museum and the archaeological site are open daily from 9am to 4:30pm. Admission is 15Bs ($1.90).

Getting There -- Tiwanaku is located 1 1/2 hours outside of La Paz. I strongly recommend coming here on a guided tour. Diana Tours, Sagárnaga 326 (tel. 0102/2350-252), organizes English-speaking tours to Tiwanaku for only 70Bs ($8.75), not including the 15Bs ($1.90) site admission fee. Crillon Tours, Av. Camacho 1233 (tel. 0102/2337-533), also arranges tours to the area. If you prefer to visit on your own, Trans Tours Tiwanaku, Calle José Aliaga, operates buses that stop at Tiwanaku. The buses leave from the Cementerio District every half-hour from 8am to 4:30pm. The ride costs 7Bs (90¢).

The Best of Los Yungas: Coroico

Coroico makes a popular side trip for visitors to La Paz, but you'll probably remember the journey better than the destination. The road to Coroico narrows to one unpaved lane twisting down through the mountains. To one side is the mountain, to the other, a sheer drop of often hundreds of feet to the lush valley below. There will be times when the passage is tight and your vehicle is only an inch or two from the edge; there will be other times when you round a blind curve and your driver, confronted by oncoming traffic, has to slam on the brakes.

When the ride is over and your heart rate has returned to normal, you may be surprised at the tranquility of Coroico. The views of the surrounding hills are lovely, the nearby hiking trails are picturesque, the bars and restaurants in town are pleasant, and there are some worthwhile excursions; but there's really nothing here to take your breath away. Nonetheless, Coroico makes a wonderful contrast to La Paz. Here in this tropical town, you'll find fruit orchards, twittering birds, coca fields, endless greenery, oxygen-rich air, warm weather, and friendly locals. The climate here seems to put everyone in a better mood.

The town of Coroico itself isn't anything special, but it's a lot of fun to explore the lush, colorful surrounding area. You can take a half-day tour of Tocaña, a small Afro-Bolivian community located about 7km (4 1/3 miles) downhill from Coroico. It feels as if not much has changed over the past few hundred years in this farming village, where the locals survive mainly by growing coca. Also nearby are the Vagante River Springs. Here you can swim under a waterfall and in beautiful pools of water. Vagantes Ecoaventuras, located at the kiosk in the Coroico main plaza, provides guides (not always English-speaking) and jeeps to Tocaña and Vagante River Springs. Note that the jeeps are open and the roads aren't paved, so you will get extremely dirty.

It's surprising that in a town like Coroico, which is set high up in the mountains, there aren't many hiking trails. Perhaps this is because most of the land in the area is farmland. The most popular hike is the 6km (3 3/4-mile) trek to the waterfalls (las cascadas). It's not really a hike, but more of a long walk on a dusty road. The waterfalls are pleasant, but you can't swim in them, and to be honest, I'm not sure they are worth the long walk. However, the mountains and the valleys on the road are breathtaking. For more information about this and other walks in the area, contact the tourist information office on Coroico's main plaza.

In the dry season, the rivers in the Coroico area become low and unsuitable for rafting. However, in January through March, the Coroico River runs wild. River levels range from Class III to Class V. Vagantes Ecoaventuras (at the kiosk in Coroico's main plaza, on the corner of Heroes del Chaco) organizes rafting and kayaking tours in the area.

Getting There -- Buses for Coroico leave La Paz on a frequent schedule from the Villa Fátima neighborhood, which is about 15 minutes by taxi from the center of La Paz. (It costs about 9Bs/$1.15.) Most of the bus companies are located on Calle Yanacachi. One of the best is Yungueña (tel. 0102/2213-513; call ahead for the schedule); the ride costs 15Bs ($1.90) each way. I recommend leaving around 10am -- this way, you'll arrive in Coroico for lunch and then have the rest of the afternoon to walk around town or hang out by a pool. Buses depart less frequently in the afternoon (the last one leaves at about 4pm), but it's much nicer to travel during daylight and enjoy the view. Try to get a seat on the left side of the bus for the best views.

Chalalan Eco Lodge

Eco-tourism is a much used word these days, so much so that it seems any South American hotel with a bamboo roof and resident pet parrot feels they have license to use the term. Chalalan Eco Lodge (www.chalalan.com) truly lives up to the hype, however. Buried deep within Madidi National Park, this jungle complex made up of traditional tacana-style cabañas is owned and operated by an indigenous local tribe. The cabins are surrounded by dense forests, teeming with wildlife such as monkeys, tapirs, alligators, and wild pigs. Best of all, everything is made from sustainable material, from the chonta palm walls and roofs woven from jakata leaves to the solar-powered plumbing system. Note: Eco-friendly also means there is no electricity or hot water.

Modern comforts are on hand, though. The lodge accommodates 24 guests and has a library well stocked with field guides and reference materials on biodiversity. Rooms are comfortable, with shared bathrooms, and come with decorative art and mosquito nets. In addition, the professional kitchen provides delicious local and international cuisine.

Chalalan is accessible by short flight from La Paz to Rurrenbaque. From there it's a 6-hour boat trip upriver. The best time to visit is during the dry season from April to November when rooms cost $150 per person or $80 per person in the rainy season. Five-day package deals start at $399 plus the flight (about $120). Contact America Tours, Av. 16 de Julio (El Prado) 1490, Edificio Avenida PB, Office No 9, La Paz (tel. 591/2237-4204; www.america-ecotours.com) or Explore Bolivia (tel. 303/708-8810; www.explorebolivia.com).