At times, it feels as though La Paz is one big shopping center. The streets teem with vendors peddling everything you can imagine. You never have to walk far to find what you need. The city is a mecca for handmade arts-and-crafts products. Calle Sagárnaga is shopper's central, with thousands of stores all packed to the gills with local handicrafts. In general, most of the quality is mediocre, but the variety and uniqueness of the goods sold here is mighty impressive. Some of the more popular items include alpaca sweaters (usually about $8-$10 each), hand-woven shoulder bags, leather bags, wool hats, textiles, gloves, and all sorts of things that you will never find in your hometown. ComArt, Calle Linares 958 (about 1 block down from Sagárnaga), is the only association of organized workers in La Paz. When you buy something here, your money goes directly to the workers, not the shopkeepers. If you're trying to find some differences between all the stores in the area, here's a tip: Both Millma, Calle Sagárnaga 225, and Artesanía Sorata, Calle Sagárnaga 311 and Calle Linares 862, sell some of the best quality alpaca sweaters in town. On the other side of town, you'll find beautiful silver jewelry at Kuka Pradel, Av. 6 de Agosto 2190.
Note that Bolivian vendors are not seasoned negotiators -- they may drop the price by a dollar or two, but for the most part, prices are firm. Once you walk away, say goodbye forever to that gorgeous $4 hand-woven bag. The shopkeepers know that someone else will fork over the dough.
The Witch Doctors' Market -- Venture off of Calle Sagárnaga onto Calle Linares and you'll find yourself in the appropriately named Witch Doctors' Market. Here, you can buy a ghoulish variety of charms, spices, and magic potions to help cast a positive spell on your future. Llama fetuses are one of the most popular items for sale here. If you're looking for luck, here's a list to help you decode the meaning of all the amulets on display: Frogs are said to bring good fortune; turtles are the symbol of long life; owls bring knowledge; snakes are a sign of progression (or moving in the right direction); koa -- a dried plant made with molasses -- is supposed to help your harvest; and pumas will help you achieve victory over your enemy.
The Black Market -- Need a computer, a toilet bowl, tools, or a stereo? You'll find them all at the Black Market. Apparently, everything here is smuggled in from Chile. It's widely known that the merchandise is not always totally legit, but these days, even police officers do their shopping here. You'll find some incredible bargains. Even if you can't fit a toilet bowl in your suitcase, it's still a hoot to wander the crowded streets and watch as the locals wheel and deal. The Black Market is a few blocks uphill from the heart of Sagárnaga, past Max Paredes; you'll find a lot of action around Calle La Gasca and Eloy Salmón.
