Introduction to La Paz, Mexico

177km (110 miles) N of Cabo San Lucas; 196km (122 miles) NW of San José del Cabo; 1,578km (978 miles) SE of Tijuana

La Paz means "peace," and the feeling seems to float on the ocean breezes of this provincial town. Despite being an important port, home to almost 200,000 inhabitants, and the capital of the state of Baja California Sur, it remains slow-paced and relaxed. Beautiful deserted beaches just minutes away complement the lively beach and palm-fringed malecón (seaside boulevard) that front the town center. The easygoing city is the guardian of "old Baja" atmosphere, and it has an unmistakable air of outdoor adventure, thanks to the ubiquity of skilled anglers, competitive freedivers, Baja 1000 racers, recreational (as in, noncommercial) spearfishermen, a marina full of large yachts, and kayak-rental agencies.

Adventurous travelers enjoy countless options, including hiking, rock climbing, diving, fishing, and sea kayaking. Islands and islets sit just offshore, once hiding places for looting pirates but now magnets for kayakers and beachcombers. At Espíritu Santo and Los Islotes, it's possible to camp overnight, posh safari-style, at Baja Camp (www.bajacamp.com), and swim with sea lions, respectively.

The University of Southern Baja California adds a unique cultural presence that includes museums and a theater and arts center. The surrounding tropical desert diversity and endemic wildlife are also compelling reasons to visit. Despite its name, La Paz has historically been a place of conflict between explorers and indigenous populations. Beginning in 1535, Spanish conquistadors and Jesuit missionaries arrived and exerted their influence on the town's architecture and traditions. From the time conquistadors saw local Indians wearing pearl ornaments, mass pearl harvesting lasted through the late 1930s, when all the pearls eventually were wiped out. John Steinbeck immortalized a local legend in his novella The Pearl.

La Paz is ideal for anyone nostalgic for Los Cabos the way it used to be -- and it has the breathtaking sunsets not always visible at Baja's tip. From accommodations to taxis, it's also one of Mexico's most outstanding beach vacation values and a great place for family travelers.

Just an hour south of La Paz is the blissful town of Todos Santos. Although well past its off-the-beaten-path days, it's still a favorite among bohemian types looking either for regional up-and-coming artists or simply a piece of art that makes them feel good -- and it's a prime destination among those weary of the L.A.-ization of Cabo San Lucas.

The art and artistry created here -- from the kitchen to the canvas -- is of an evolved type that seems to care less about commercial appeal than quality. In doing so, it becomes more of a draw. Not to be overlooked are the arts of agriculture, masonry, and weaving created by some of the town's original residents.