Planning a Trip

Getting There & Departing

By Plane -- Both Alaska Airlines (tel. 800/252-7522) and Delta (tel. 800/241-4141) have nonstop flights from Los Angeles. Aeroméxico (tel. 800/237-6639 in the U.S., or 612/122-0091, 612/122-0093, or 612/122-1636) connects through Tucson and Los Angeles in the United States, and flies from Mexico City and other points within Mexico.

By Car -- From San José del Cabo, Highway 1 north is the more scenic route and it passes through a mountain town called San Bartolo, where heavenly homemade macaroons made of thick, fresh-cut coconut and pralines made from cajeta (goat's-milk caramel) are well worth the slightly longer drive. An arguably faster route is heading east of Cabo San Lucas and then north to Highway 19 through Todos Santos. A little before San Pedro, Highway 19 rejoins Highway 1 and runs north into La Paz; both trips take 2 1/2 to 3 hours. From northern Baja, Highway 1 south is the only choice; the trip from Loreto takes 4 to 5 hours.

By Bus -- The Central Camionera (main bus station) is at Jalisco and Héroes de la Independencia, about 25 blocks southwest of the center of town; it's open daily from 6am to 10pm. Bus service operates from the south (Los Cabos, 2 1/2-3 1/2 hr.) and north (as far as Tijuana). It's best to buy your ticket in person the day before, though reservations can be made over the phone at the bus station in your point of origin. Taxis are available in front of the station.

All routes north and south, as well as buses to Pichilingue, the ferry pier, and close to outlying beaches, are available through the Transportes Aguila station, sometimes called the beach bus terminal, on the malecón at Alvaro Obregón and Cinco de Mayo (tel. 612/122-7898). The station is open daily from 6am to 10pm. Buses to Pichilingue depart seven times a day from 8am to 5pm and cost $2 one way. Local buses arrive at the beach station, along the malecón. Taxis line up out front of both.

More local destinations are handled from the beach bus station, where the main bus station has more long-distance trips to major points in Baja. Buses from the Central Camionera tend to be more modern and have better facilities.

By Ferry -- Baja Ferries serves La Paz from Topolobampo (the port for Los Mochis) daily at 11:30pm, and the return trip to Topolobampo leaves La Paz at 3pm daily. Tickets are available at the Baja Ferries office in La Paz, on the corner of Allende and Marcelo Rubio (tel. 612/123-6600 or 612/123-1313), or at any Banamex bank throughout Mexico (make payable to Baja Ferries, SA de CV, account #7145468 sucursal 001). The local office is open daily 8am to 6pm. For toll-free information, call tel. 01-800/122-1414 within Mexico. Several tour agencies in town book reservations on the ferry, but it is best to buy your ticket in person at the ferry office.

The ferry departs for Topolobampo daily at 11:30pm and arrives in La Paz 6 hours later. The ferries can carry 1,000 passengers as well as accommodate vehicles. Passengers pay one fee for themselves ($68 for a seat, $34 for children ages 3-11, or $144 for a cabin with four beds and one bathroom) and another for their vehicles ($100). The ferries offer restaurant and bar service, as well as a coffee shop and live music, and a hot meal is included in the cost of the ticket. Access for those with disabilities is offered as well. Passengers are requested to arrive 3 hours prior to departure time. Information and updated schedules are available at www.bajaferries.com.

Reserve your space on the ferry as early as possible and confirm your reservation 24 hours before departure; you can pick up tickets at the port terminal ticket office as late as the morning of the day you are leaving. The dock is at Pichilingue, 18km (11 miles) north of La Paz.

Buses to Pichilingue depart from the beach bus terminal of Transportes Aguila (tel. 612/122-7898) on the malecón at Independencia on the hour, from 7am to 8pm, and cost $2 each way.

Taking Your Car to the Mainland -- Those planning to take their cars on the ferry to the Mexican mainland must meet all the requirements listed in "Planning a Trip" under "Los Cabos". Additionally, every traveler going to the mainland needs a Mexican Tourist Permit (FMT).

Tourism officials in La Paz say that FMTs are available only in Mexicali, Tecate, Tijuana, Ensenada, and Guerrero Negro, and not in La Paz, although car permits to cross over into the mainland can be issued there. If you do happen to make it as far as La Paz, or anywhere outside the frontier zone, and are found not to have an FMT, you will be subject to a $40 fine.

Arriving

By Plane -- The airport is 18km (11 miles) northwest of town along the highway to Ciudad Constitución and Tijuana. Airport colectivos (around $12 per person) run only from the airport to town, not vice versa, and a group shuttle is a flat charge of $25. Taxi service (around $27) is available as well. Most major rental-car agencies have booths inside the airport. Budget's local number is tel. 612/124-6433 or 612/122-7655; you can contact Avis at tel. 612/122-2651, or Alamo at tel. 612/122-6262.

By Bus -- Buses arrive at the Central Camionera, about 25 blocks southwest of downtown, or at the beach station along the malecón. Taxis line up in front of both.

By Ferry -- Buses line up in front of the ferry dock at Pichilingue to meet every arriving ferry. They stop at the beach bus station on the malecón at Independencia; it's within walking distance of many downtown hotels if you're not encumbered with luggage. Taxis also meet each ferry and cost about $8 to downtown La Paz.

Visitor Information

The most accessible visitor information office is on the corner of Alvaro Obregón and Nicolas Bravo (tel. 612/122-5939 or 612/124-0100; turismo@gbcs.gob.mx or turismo@lapaz.cromwell.com.mx). It's open daily from 8am to 8pm. The extremely helpful staff speaks English and can supply information on La Paz, Los Cabos, and the rest of the region. The official website of the La Paz Tourism Board is www.vivalapaz.com.

City Layout

Although La Paz sprawls well inland from the malecón (the seaside boulevard, Alvaro Obregón), you'll probably spend most of your time in the older, more congenial downtown section within a few blocks of the waterfront. The main plaza, Plaza Pública (or Jardín Velasco), is bounded by Madero, Independencia, Revolución, and Cinco de Mayo. The plaza centers on an iron bandstand where public concerts frequently take place in the evening and the malecón is dotted with the bronze sculptures of Guadalajara artist Alejandro Colunga.

Getting Around

Because most of what you'll need and want in town is on the malecón between the tourist information office and the Hotel Los Arcos, or a few blocks inland from the waterfront, it's easy to get around La Paz on foot. Public buses go to some of the beaches north of town, but to explore the many beaches within 81km (50 miles) of La Paz, your best bet is to rent a car or hire a taxi. Several car-rental agencies have offices on the malecón.

Festivals & Events in La Paz

February features the biggest and best carnaval, or Mardi Gras, in Baja, as well as a month-long Festival of the Gray Whale (starting in Feb or Mar). On May 3, La Fiesta de La Paz celebrates the city's founding by Cortez in 1535 and features artesanía exhibitions from throughout southern Baja. The annual marlin-fishing tournament is in August, with other fishing tournaments in September and November. And on November 1 and 2, the Days of the Dead, altars are on display at the Anthropology Museum.