Active Pursuits

La Paz combines the unselfconscious bustle of a small capital port city with beautiful, isolated beaches not far from town. Well on its way to becoming the undisputed adventure-tourism capital of Baja, it's the starting point for whale-watching, diving, sea kayaking, climbing, freediving, and hiking tours throughout the peninsula. Those interested in day adventures can usually arrange any of those activities, plus beach tours, sunset cruises, and visits to the sea-lion colony, through travel agencies in major hotels or along the malecón. You can also arrange activities through agencies in the United States that specialize in Baja's natural history.

Cruises

A popular and very worthwhile cruise is to Isla Espíritu Santo and Los Islotes. You visit the largest sea-lion colony in Baja, stunning rock formations, and remote beaches, with stops for snorkeling, swimming, and lunch. If conditions permit, you may even be able to snorkel beside the sea lions at Los Islotes. (Note: Remember sea lions are wild animals. Blowing bubbles in your face is their sign of warning, not of play, so steer clear of the giant bulls -- who can be quite protective of their females -- and let the curious babies come to you.) Both boat and bus tours are available to Puerto Balandra, where bold rock formations rising up like humpback whales frame pristine coves of crystal-blue water and ivory sand. Viajes Lybs and other travel agencies can arrange these all-day trips, weather permitting. Price is $80 per person.

Sea Kayaking

Kayaking in the many bays and coves near La Paz is a paddler's dream, and because some of the area's special sites for swimming and snorkeling are accessible only by kayak, daylong or multiday trips can't be beat. In the waters near La Paz, the water clarity gives the sensation of being suspended in the air. Bring your own equipment, or let the local companies take care of you. Several companies in the United States can book trips in advance. Locally, Baja Quest (see above; day trips start at $90 and multiday trips also are available) and Mar y Aventuras (tel. 612/123-0559; fax 612/122-3559; www.kayakbaja.com) arrange extended kayak adventures.

Sportfishing

La Paz, justly famous for its sportfishing, attracts anglers from all over the world. Its waters are home to more than 850 species of fish. The most economical approach is to rent a panga boat with a captain and equipment. It costs $125 for 3 hours, but you don't go very far out. Super pangas, which have a shade cover and comfortable seats, start at around $180 for two persons. Larger cruisers with bathrooms start at $240. Local hotels and tour agencies arrange sportfishing trips.

You can arrange sportfishing trips locally through hotels and tour agencies. DeSea Baja's (tel. 310/691-8040; www.lapazsportfishing.com) rates start at $220 per day for two people. David Jones of The Fishermen's Fleet (tel. 612/122-1313; fax 612/125-7334; www.fishermensfleet.com) uses the locally popular panga-style fishing boat. David is superprofessional, speaks English, and truly understands area fishing. Average price is $225 for the boat, but double-check what the price includes -- you may need to bring your own food and drinks.

Whale Watching

Between January and March (and sometimes as early as Dec), 3,000 to 5,000 gray whales migrate from the Bering Strait to the Pacific coast of Baja. The main whale-watching spots are Laguna San Ignacio (on the Pacific, near San Ignacio), Bahía Magdalena (on the Pacific, near Puerto López Mateos -- about a 2-hr. drive from La Paz), and Scammon's Lagoon (near Guerrero Negro).

Although it is across the peninsula on the Sea of Cortez, La Paz has the only major international airport in the area and thus has become a center of Baja's whale-watching excursions. Most tours originating in La Paz go to Bahía Magdalena, where the whales give birth in calm waters. Several companies arrange whale-watching tours originating in La Paz or other Baja towns or in the United States; 12-hour tours from La Paz start at around $115 per person, including breakfast, lunch, transportation, and an English-speaking guide. Make reservations at Viajes Lybs, 16 de Septiembre 408, between Revolución and Serdán (tel. 612/122-4680; fax 612/125-9600).

Most tours from the United States offer birding, sea kayaking, and other close-to-nature experiences during the same trip.

You can go whale-watching without joining a tour by taking a bus from La Paz to Puerto López Mateos or Puerto San Carlos at Magdalena Bay (a 3-hr. ride) and hiring a boat there. It's a long trip to do in a day, but there are a few modest hotels in San Carlos. Check at the La Paz tourist office for information.

Snorkeling with Baja's Sea Lions

Among the many treasures of Baja, prime among them are the colonies of sea lions that live in the Sea of Cortez. These playful, curious sea creatures prove a powerful lure for many travelers to this area. One of the largest colonies is found at Los Islotes, a cluster of tiny rock islands north of La Paz, the desert capital of Baja, Mexico. The islands' claim to fame is that they're the year-round home to a colony or "rookery" of some 250 California brown sea lions.

Many tour operators in La Paz offer trips to Los Islotes, generally in pangas -- the trip, by boat, takes about 2 1/2 hours from La Paz. Here, the sea lions lay in the sun along the jagged rock shelves, bark out greetings to visitors, and occasionally belly-flop into the water.

Trip participants don wet suits or skins, lifejackets, and snorkels to join the sea lions, which will occasionally instigate play by mimicking your movements in the water.

California sea lions are considered to be the smartest of the pinnipeds, the class of mammals with flippers. However, they're also kind of like seafaring guard dogs. While they are adorable, don't let their big brown eyes fool you: They are wild animals and should be treated as such. No feeding, no touching, and don't get too close to their rocky home. The chocolate-brown "bulls" can weigh up to 1,000 pounds and can occasionally become aggressive, so keeping your distance from the males and the females and pups they're protecting is a good idea. For example, if a sea lion blows bubbles in your face, consider it a warning that you're too close.

Among the operators offering sea-lion snorkeling trips is Cortez Club, at the La Concha Beach Resort (tel. 612/121-6120; www.cortezclub.com). The full-day excursion departs at 8:30am and costs $77 per person, which includes wet suit, snorkel gear, and a box lunch, which you'll eat on the beach at Isla Partida. Dive trips are also available, with depths at Los Islotes averaging 7 1/2 to 15m (25-49 ft.).

Ecotours

A wide selection of ecotours and adventure activities are available through Baja Quest and Grupo Fun Baja (tel. 612/121-5884 or 612/125-2366; www.funbaja.com). In addition to diving excursions (the company's specialty), they also offer ATV tours and kite surfing. DeSea Baja offers driving tours in rental vehicles equipped for off-road adventures.