A night in La Paz logically begins in a cafe along the malecón as the sun sinks into the sea -- have your camera ready.
A favorite ringside seat at dusk is a table at La Terraza, next to the Hotel Perla (tel. 612/122-0777). La Terraza makes good, schooner-size margaritas. Pelícanos Bar, on the second story of the Hotel Los Arcos (tel. 612/122-2744), has a good view of the waterfront and a clubby, cozy feel. Later in the night, Carlos 'n' Charlie's La Paz-Lapa (tel. 612/122-9290) has live music on the weekends. La Cabaña nightclub (tel. 612/122-0777) in the Hotel Perla features Latin rhythms. It opens at 9pm daily, and there's a $4 cover on weekends.
For dancing, a few of the hottest clubs are Casa de Villa (no phone), where current pop music commingles with young Paceños (La Paz locals) till late on the second-floor terrace above La Paz-Lapa on the malecón. Las Varitas (tel. 612/125-2025), Independencia and Dominguez, plays Latin rock, ranchero, and salsa. Both are open from 9pm to 3 or 4am Thursday through Saturday (occasionally open earlier in the week as well), with cover charges around $5 (the charge may be waived or increased, depending on the crowd).
