Altos de Chavon: An Artists' Colony
In 1976 a plateau about 150km (100 miles) east of Santo Domingo was selected by Charles G. Bluhdorn, then chairman of Gulf + Western Industries, as the site for a remarkable project. Dominican stonecutters, woodworkers, and ironsmiths began the task that would produce Altos de Chavón, a flourishing Caribbean art center set above the canyon of the Río Chavón and the Caribbean Sea.
A walk down one of the cobblestone paths of Altos de Chavón reveals architecture reminiscent of another era at every turn. Coral block and terra-cotta brick buildings house artists' studios, craft workshops, galleries, stores, and restaurants. Mosaics of black river pebbles, sun-bleached coral, and red sandstone spread out to the plazas. The Church of St. Stanislaus is the central attraction on the main plaza, with its fountain of the four lions, colonnade of obelisks, and panoramic views. Mass is held every Saturday and Sunday at 5pm.
The galleries (tel. 809/523-8470) at Altos de Chavón offer an engaging mix of exhibits. In three distinct spaces -- the Principal Gallery, the Rincón Gallery, and the Loggia -- the work of well-known and emerging Dominican and international artists is showcased. The gallery has a consignment space where finely crafted silk-screen and other works are sold. Exhibits change about every month.
Altos de Chavón's talleres are craft ateliers, where local artisans produce ceramic, silk-screen, and woven-fiber products. From the clay apothecary jars with carnival devil lids to the colored tapestries of Dominican houses, the rich island folklore is much in evidence. The posters, note cards, and printed T-shirts that come from the silk-screen workshops are among the most sophisticated in the Caribbean. All the products of Altos de Chavón's talleres are sold at La Tienda (tel. 809/523-3333, ext. 5398), the foundation village store.
The Altos de Chavón Regional Museum of Archaeology (tel. 809/523-8554) houses the objects of Samuel Pion, an amateur archaeologist and collector of treasures from the vanished Taíno tribes, the island's first settlers. The timeless quality of some of the museum's objects makes them seem strangely contemporary in design -- one discovers sculptural forms that recall the work of Brancusi or Arp. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 8pm; entrance is free.
At the heart of the village's performing-arts complex is the 5,000-seat open-air amphitheater. Since its inauguration by the late Frank Sinatra and Carlos Santana, the amphitheater has hosted concerts (by Julio Iglesias and Gloria Estefan, among others), symphonies, theater, and festivals. The annual Heineken Jazz Festival has brought together such diverse talents as Dizzy Gillespie, Toots Thielmans, Randy Brecker, Shakira, Carlos Ponce, Carlo Vives, and Jon Secada.
The creations at Everett Designs (tel. 809/523-8554) are so original that many visitors mistake this place for a museum. Each piece of jewelry is handcrafted by Bill Everett in a minifactory at the rear of the shop.
