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Chef Michael Mina’s take on a bistro is as classic as they come, down to the dark wood paneling, brass railings, and low lighting. If you’ve encountered a dish in a Paris neighborhood bistro, it’s on the menu here. Charcuterie and pâté are popular ways to begin dinner, as well as buttery escargot Bardot-style, served in puff pastry. Duck a l’orange is such an old school dish that even most French restaurants don’t serve it anymore. But here, translated onto the wings of the duck with a delicate sauce, you’ll be happy it made a comeback. Other traditional offerings, such as steak frites, mussels in white wine, and roasted bone marrow feature rustic presentations in copper pans or on plain white plates, so you can feel like you’re eating real food rather than a contrived piece of art.

Weekend brunch is increasingly one of the most popular meals here, thanks to well-executed preparations of Croque Madame and ample eggs Benedict served on croissants rather than boring old English muffins, not to mention a reasonably priced, bottomless glass of rosé. The concise, French-heavy wine list is meant to pair with the dishes, while a really strong cocktail program encourages guests to hang out at the bar and make a night of it there.