Despite all the famous chefs who are trying to recreate their versions of comfort food, finding true soul food in Las Vegas isn’t easy. Especially when you have to trek off the Strip to get it. Before, you’d have to head to a potentially sketchy neighborhood, but M&M recently added a second location just behind the Stratosphere. Admittedly, this area is only marginally nicer than its original, but at least it’s closer. M&M looks like a greasy spoon diner from the outside, but inside there’s a menu of no-nonsense, stick-to-your-ribs fare that begins with an order of mini-cornbread pancakes delivered to every table. The smothered chicken will make you rethink your cholesterol levels, but with gravy like that you can’t say no. Finding oxtails not in a soup in Las Vegas is hard, here they’re also covered with luscious gravy instead of broth. Collard greens, fried okra, and mac and cheese are mandatory as sides if you want the full experience. Dishes like liver and onions and chitterlings are other faves, and as well-prepared as they are south of the Mason-Dixon line.
- Rick Garman