If you can get past the overwrought Mediterranean and Middle Eastern decor, you’ll discover yet another interesting and authentic ethnic cuisine experience in a strip mall in Vegas. The menu skips around the region with stops in Greece (gyros, pitas, moussaka); Italy (lasagna, spaghetti, chicken parm); and the Middle East (kabobs, kibbe, fesenjan); plus a detour to India (tandoori and chicken curry), which is geographically questionable—but with food this good, we’ll let it slide. As the menu warns, kabobs take 20 minutes, so order an appetizer plate with various dips to while away the time. The hummus here is too reminiscent of its chickpea origins, but the baba ghanouj is properly smoky and the falafel has the right crunch. Gyros may not be the most adventurous thing to order, but who cares about that when you’ve got a well-stuffed pita pocket, gloopy with yogurt sauce. Fesenjan is a dish of falling-apart chicken swimming in a tangy pomegranate sauce; ask them to ensure that the ratio of sauce to chicken is greater than 10:1. Bonus points for the honest-to-goodness hookah lounge, which features DJs and no cover charge on Saturday nights.
- Rick Garman