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As one of the original fine dining restaurants in Las Vegas when Bellagio opened in 1989, Picasso, like the priceless artwork that hangs in it, is timeless. Chef Julian Serrano has been in command since the beginning, and he’s still spinning haute French fare like no one else. There are several prix fixe menus to choose from, though they all change often, reflecting the season and whatever looks best that day. Does Serrano’s artful cuisine complement the millions of dollars of artwork or is it the other way around? With dishes like the warm quail salad with sautéed artichokes and pine nuts, roasted milk-fed veal chops, or pigeon and torchon of foie gras, all beautifully presented and arranged by nimble hands in the kitchen, it’s a toss-up. Though we feel that you can see Picasso’s paintings in Vegas more often than you can experience a meal this exceptional.