Sweets

Plenty of opportunities exist in Vegas for satisfying your sweet tooth, but for the discriminating, here are some spots that you may have to make a detour for.

Jean-Philippe Patisserie (in Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; tel. 702/693-8788) makes us swoon, not just because it has the world's largest chocolate fountain (20 ft. high! Though only 11 ft. are on view, and they won't let us drink from it. Darn.), but perhaps, more to the point, it's the home of World Pastry Champion Jean-Philippe Maury. (Yes, you can win gold medals for pastries.) Each visit causes us to spin around distractedly, trying to take in all the choices, both visually and gastronomically. From perfect gourmet chocolates to ice cream (diet-conscious folks will be relieved to learn the sorbets are excellent) to the eponymous pastries (each a little work of art), we hit greed overload. For us, this is true Vegas decadence -- if only "what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas" applied to calories. Our current favorites include a witty-looking version of lemon meringue pie to a chocolate hazelnut bombe, with so many layers of interest we couldn't quite keep track, to brioches filled with either dulce de leche or Nutella. They also serve some solidly good sandwiches, and some adequate savory crepes. Open daily from 7am to midnight.

A local favorite is Freed's Bakery, 4780 S. Eastern Ave., at Tropicana Boulevard (tel. 702/456-7762; www.freedsbakery.com), open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6:30pm and Sunday from 9am to 3pm. If you've got a serious sugar craving, this is worth the 15-minute drive from the Strip. Despite the minimalist setting, it's like walking into Grandma's kitchen (provided you had an old-fashioned granny who felt pastries should be gooey, chocolaty, and buttery). The chocolate coffeecake is especially good. They also have fresh bread, napoleons, strawberry cheesecake, cream puffs, sweet rolls, Danishes, and doughnuts, many of which are made with surprisingly fresh ingredients. Some may find the goodies too heavy and rich, but for those of us with a powerful sweet tooth, this place hits the spot.

Those staying at the Green Valley Resort can rejoice over their proximity to The Cupcakery, 9680 S. Eastern, in Henderson (tel. 702/207-2253; www.thecupcakery.com). Thus far, Vegas's only entry into the cupcake wars currently raging in major U.S. cities, the delectable cakes here aren't large, but they pack a wallop of moist cake and creamy frosting. Clever combinations include the Boston cream pie (filled with custardy cream), but even the basic chocolate-on-chocolate is a butter-cream pleasure. They even have sugar-free cupcakes for those with such dietary needs. Because they offer sit-down seating as well as take-away, you can make this a stop if you are out visiting any Henderson sights. Open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 8pm, and Sunday noon to 6pm.

Hot Vegas days call for cool desserts, and frozen custard (softer than regular ice cream, but harder than soft serve) is a fine way to go. Head for Luv-It Frozen Custard, 505 E. Oakey (tel. 702/384-6452; www.luvitfrozencustard.com), open Tuesday through Thursday from 1 to 10pm, Friday and Saturday from 1 to 11pm. Because it has less fat and sugar than premium ice cream, you can even fool yourself into thinking this is somewhat healthful (ha!). Made every few hours using fresh cream and eggs, Luv-It Frozen Custard has basic flavors available for cup or cone, but more exotic ones (maple walnut, apple spice, and more) in tubs.

Another Chinatown alternative for baked goods is the French/Asian Provence Bakery, 5115 Spring Mountain, no. 225 (tel. 702/341-0168). Try custard buns, sweet bread, and all manner of cookies, but definitely grab one of their packages of little cream puffs, superior in many ways to the cream-puff chains popping up in other parts of the U.S. It all makes for good snack-grabbing to and from Red Rock or as a post-Chinese meal dessert in the complex. They also have shaved ice and smoothies. Open Monday through Saturday from 9:30am to 9pm, Sunday from 10am to 9pm.