Frommer's Review
One of the most sophisticated restaurants in Las Vegas, this is an offshoot of a highly regarded San Francisco establishment run by Chef Hubert Keller. Continuing the tradition of visually show-stopping restaurant spaces in Mandalay Bay, most tables are set in the semicircular two-story interior consisting half of '70s-style stone brick walls, half of billowing drapes, behind which are concealed a few dining booths. The tasting table is in the "wine loft" above the action, allowing fortunate diners a candle-framed view of the action below, surely the choicest table at what we consider one of the choicest restaurants in town. The entire thing is just sexy, in a grown-up way, right down to the playful, fanciful composition of the food. It's one of the few places in Vegas where you ought to dress up to dine, but in a good way.
Although the bustling servers do seem to know the difference between prompt care and unctuous crowding, it does feel a bit rushed -- this is food you want to linger over. At this writing, one orders from a three-, four-, or five-course tasting menu (including a well-thought-out vegetarian option), featuring seasonal choices such as delicate seared ahi tuna with a gelée of chile and garlic, a silly appearing but hearty ocean "baeckeoffe" (a collection of seafood options, such as a sort of seafood burger-style crab cake on a brioche), pan-seared diver scallops with parsnip fries served in a cunning mini flower pot, perfect roasted Maine lobster with an artichoke purée soup, and roasted guinea hen breast and leg confit topped with crispy basil. Our descriptions won't do these playful, sexy dishes justice. Despite the presence of a perfect white and dark chocolate mousse on the "Chocolate Feast" sampler plate, you owe it to yourself to try the fresh fruit minestrone -- basic sorbet, raspberries, and poppy seed langue de chat, all strong fresh fruit flavors that harmonize beautifully, no fat, and you won't care.
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