Frommer's Review
Alex Stratta (possibly familiar to you from his stint on the American "Iron Chef") followed his boss Steve Wynn from The Mirage, closing his Renoir venue to open this eponymous one instead. A dramatic room, all swooping drapes and inlaid wood, it's about two fussy steps away from true elegance but still a place where grown-ups come to dine, while appreciating the venture as "occasion." Stratta comes from a cosmopolitan and international background; add to that both some years working under Alain Ducasse and a general sense of food as pleasure and art, and you have one of the most special dining experiences in Vegas. The menu changes regularly -- Chef Alex is as exacting as a chef should be, and so the readiness of seasonal ingredients dictates any particular evening's selection. If in Europe, the result would almost certainly earn a Michelin star.
Diners have their choice of two set tasting menus or a prix-fixe choice of appetizer, main course, and dessert. Expect starters such as carpaccio of Santa Barbara prawn topped with osetra caviar, or roasted scallop with basil purée, and don't neglect to ponder touches such as tiny vegetables ever so lightly cooked, the whole topped by translucent fried zucchini flower. Porcini gnocchi dissolves in the mouth, a terrine of foie gras is paired with the chef's interpretation of Waldorf salad, a main course of squab and sautéed foie gras, rhubarb, and spiced pineapple is deep, rich, and bold. Even the palate cleansers are serious, such as apricot gelée topped with coconut granita ringed by passion fruit, or strawberry gelée with lemongrass crème fraîche. As for wine, Master Sommelier Paolo Barbieri's thoughtful list includes over 1,000 labels, many of them French, with some 200 burgundies alone. Those on a budget should fear not, as the list includes such innovative treats as a "splash" of Chateau d'Yquem, which is plenty to accompany a foie gras starter and quite affordable. Desserts are of such gorgeous complexity that we cannot describe them adequately, but know that the construction is not served to the sacrifice of taste. You are in a master chef's hands; enjoy it.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
