Frommer's Review
This is listed under "very expensive" only because there is no category for "unbelievably, heart stoppingly, stratospherically expensive." But it's here because legendary chef Joël Robuchon -- the first (and youngest) chef to win three consecutive Michelin stars -- who closed his restaurants in France (where he was proclaimed "chef of the century") at the height of his fame, has proven that all the hype is justified. The Los Angeles Times gave Robuchon four stars (their highest rating) -- only the second time they've done so -- while the New York Times reviewer proclaimed this "some of the very best French food I've eaten on this continent." These are no pushovers. All exclaim over the perfect combination of gastronomic feats and culinary artistry. This is not food as fuel, food to bolt down greedily (even though you may want to), but to slowly savor. Pay attention as you chew, and notice how many layers of interest are revealed. Great care was taken in choosing and combining ingredients, to create not fuss but both surprise and a sense of rightness. Exquisite, superb -- name your superlative, and it's been levied toward this remarkable restaurant.
Chef Robuchon is not personally in the kitchen that often, but he has entrusted this kitchen to some of his former top employees, and if they stay (no implied criticism, merely a reality of the restaurant world), so should the quality. The menu changes very frequently, with many key ingredients flown in daily from France. And the service reminds one that Michelin ratings take that into account, too. None of this comes cheap. Could it possibly be worth it? When restaurant critics claim they would spend their own money to dine here, quite very possibly, yes. Look at it this way: You can easily lose the cost of a meal here in 15 forgettable minutes at a blackjack table (not that we did just that, ahem) or you can spend 3 hours slowly enjoying a meal, storing up much more pleasurable (presumably) memories. And then there is always the somewhat less expensive -- that's relative, of course -- neighbor L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, where the focus is on counter seating, an intimate interactive experience between diner, server, and chef.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
