Treasure Island

Frommer's Review

Huh? What happened to Treasure Island? What happened to the pirates? Why, Vegas grew up, that's what. Or, rather, it wants the kids it once actively tried to court to grow up, or at least, not come around until they are able to drink and gamble properly.

Originally the most modern family-friendly hotel, Treasure Island (commonly referred to as "TI" by most folks) was a blown-up version of Disneyland's Pirates of the Caribbean. But that's all behind them now, and the slight name change is there to make sure you understand that this is a grown-up, sophisticated resort. There might still be the odd pirate element here and there, but only because someone absentmindedly missed it in a ruthless purging of the last remnants. One victim is the pirate stunt show out front; it's been revamped so that the pirates (and you have no idea how much we wish we were making this up) now "battle" scantily clad strippers . . . er, "sirens."

And now, a new captain has taken over the ship. Former Frontier owner Phil Ruffin threw several hundred million dollars at MGM Mirage in 2009, and it is no longer part of that family of hotels. Ruffin has promised business as usual, at least for now, but it could mean some changes down the road.

To be fair, none of this matters a whit, unless, like us, you got a kick out of the skulls and crossbones, and treasure chests bursting with jewels and gold, that originally decorated the place. What remains, after they stripped the pirate gilt, is such a nice place to stay that in some ways, it even outranks its older sister, The Mirage. The good-size rooms are getting redone, and while they aren't breaking from the mold of geometric neutrals, they are more striking than some. Good bathrooms feature large soaking tubs -- a bather's delight. Best of all, Strip-side rooms have a view of the pirate battle -- views are best from the sixth floor on up. You know, so you can see right down the sirens' dresses.

The hotel offers half a dozen restaurants, including Isla, The Buffet at TI, and a branch of Los Angeles's Canter's Deli. Treasure Island is home to Cirque du Soleil's Mystère, one of the best shows in town.

A free tram travels between TI and The Mirage almost around the clock. For a good photo op, sit in the front of the first car: As you leave the loading dock, note how The Mirage, palm trees, and a bit of the New York-New York skyline are framed in an attractive, and surreal, manner.

There's a full-service spa and health club with a complement of machines, plus sauna, steam, whirlpool, massage, on-site trainers, TVs and stereos with headsets, and anything else you might need (including a full line of Sebastian grooming products in the women's locker room). There's a $22-per-day fee to use the facilities.

The pool is not that memorable, with none of the massive foliage and other details that make the one at The Mirage stand out. So blah is it that the staff didn't even bother to check room keys when last we swam here. It's a large, free-form swimming pool with a 230-foot loop slide and a nicely landscaped sun-deck area. It's often crawling with kids, so if that's a turn-off, go elsewhere.

Facilities:
6 restaurants; casino; concierge; executive-level rooms; health club; outdoor pool; room service; showrooms; spa; wedding chapels

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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