Introduction to Laurentian Mountains

55-129km (34-80 miles) N of Montréal

Don't expect spiked peaks or high ragged ridges. The rolling hills and rounded mountains of the Laurentian Shield are among the oldest in the world, worn down by wind and water over eons. They average between 300m and 520m (984 ft. and 1,706 ft.) in height, with the highest being Mont-Tremblant, at 968m (3,176 ft.). In the lower area, nearer to Montréal, the terrain resembles a rumpled quilt, its folds and hollows cupping a multitude of lakes large and small. Farther north the summits are higher and craggier, with patches of snow persisting well into spring, but these are still not the Alps or the Rockies. They're welcoming and embracing rather than awe-inspiring.

Half a century ago the first ski schools, rope tows, and trails began to appear. Today there are 14 ski centers within a 64km (40-mile) radius, and cross-country skiing has as enthusiastic a following as downhill (many enthusiasts say some of the best cross-country trails are on the grounds of a monastery called Domaine du St-Bernard in Mont-Tremblant). Sprawling resorts and modest lodges and inns are packed in winter with skiers, some of them through April. Trails for advanced skiers typically have short pitches and challenging moguls, with broad, hard-packed avenues for beginners and the less experienced.

But skiing is only half the story. As transportation improved, people took advantage of the obvious opportunities for watersports, golf (courses in the area now total over 30), tennis, mountain-biking, hiking, and every other kind of summer sport. Before long, the region had gained a sometimes-deserved reputation for fine dining and a convivial atmosphere that survives to this day.

Bird-watchers of both intense and casual bent can be fully occupied. Loon lovers, in particular, know that the lakes of Québec province's mountains are home to an estimated 16,000 of the native waterfowl that gives its name to the dollar coin. Excellent divers and swimmers, the birds are unable to walk on land, which makes nesting a trial. They're identified by a distinctive call that might be described as an extended mournful giggle.

At any time of the year, a visit to any of the villages and resorts in the Laurentians is likely to yield pleasant memories. The busiest times are in February and March for skiing, July and August for summer vacation, and during the Christmas-to.New Year holiday period. At other times of the year, reservations are easier to get, prices for virtually everything are lower, and crowds are thinner. May and September are often characterized by warm days, cool nights, and just enough people that the streets don't seem deserted.

March and April are the months when the maple trees are tapped, and cabanes à sucre ("sugar shacks") open up everywhere, some selling just maple syrup and candies, others serving full meals and even staging entertainment.

July and August bring glorious summer days to the Laurentians, and during the last 2 weeks in September the leaves put on a stunning show of autumnal color. Skiers can usually expect reliable snow from early December to mid-April.

In May and June, it must be said, the indigenous black flies and mosquitoes can seem as big and as ill-tempered as buzzards, so be prepared. Some of the resorts, inns, and lodges close down for a couple of weeks in the spring and the fall; a handful are open only for a few weeks in the winter months.

Prices can be difficult to pin down. The large resorts have so many types of rooms, suites, cottages, meal plans, discounts, and packages that you may need a travel agent to pick through the thicket of options. In planning, remember that Montréalers fill the highways when they "go up north" on weekends, particularly during the top skiing months, so plan ahead if you'll be there with them and make reservations early. Check websites for deals, and show your AAA card for discounts. An unfortunate note for pet owners: Few Laurentian resorts accept animals.