Active Pursuits

If you'd like to combine sightseeing with some beach life, head to São Pedro de Moel, 23km (14 miles) west of Leiria and 135km (84 miles) north of Lisbon. Take N242 west of Leiria to the glass-manufacturing center of Marinha Grande, and then take N242 the rest of the way (9km/5 1/2 miles) to the ocean. São Pedro de Moel, perched on a cliff above the Atlantic, is known for its bracing ocean breezes. New villas have sprung up, yet the old quarter retains its cobblestone streets. The white-sand beaches run up to the village's gray-walled ramparts, and the scattered rocks offshore create controlled conditions, rolling breakers, and rippling surf. On a palisade above the beach at the residential edge of the village is a good hotel, the Hotel Mar e Sol, Av. da Liberdade 1, 2430-501 Pedro do Moel, Marinha Grande (tel. 24/459-00-00; fax 24/459-00-19; www.hotelmaresol.com). A double room is 55€ to 110€, including breakfast.