Picanha na Praça, Praça Otaviano Alves 62, Lençóis (tel. 075/3334-1248), serves up the best Brazilian steak sizzling hot and done to perfection. If you don't like steak, there's not much point in coming, and the side dishes are the usual forgettable assortment of Brazilian carbohydrates. But mmmmm, that picanha is good. Open daily from 1 to 11pm. Neco's Bar, Praça Clarim Pacheco 15 (tel. 075/3334-1179), serves regional cuisine -- the favorites of the local area. Seafood is almost nonexistent up here. Instead, chefs make use of dried, often salted beef and a variety of strong spices. Open daily from noon to 10pm.