Nightlife

Few other cities in Spain evoke the mystery of the Middle Ages like León. To best appreciate the old-fashioned eloquence of the city, after dark wander around the Plaza Mayor, the edges of which are peppered with simple cafes and bars. None is particularly different from its neighbor, but overall the effect is rich, evocative, and wonderfully conducive to conversation and romance. Our favorite of the lot is Bar Universale, Plaza Mayor (no phone), which serves tapas, sherries, wine, and beer in a setting that's particularly mellow.