Attractions

Les Baux has two differing characters: the inhabited and carefully preserved medieval village and the evocative ruins of its fortress, the "dead" village. Visitors enter the city through the 19th-century Port Mage, but in medieval times, the monumental Porte Eyguières was the only entrance to the fortified city.

From place St-Vincent are sweeping views over the Vallon de la Fontaine. This is the site of the 12th-century Eglise St-Vincent (no phone), with its beautiful campanile, called La Lanterne des Morts (Lantern of the Dead). The stained-glass windows were a gift from Rainier of Monaco, in his capacity as the marquis des Baux. They are modern, based on designs of French artist Max Ingrand. The church is open April to October daily from 9am to 6:30pm, November to March daily 10am to 5:30pm. Yves Brayer Museum, at the intersection of rue de la Calade and rue de l'Eglise (tel. 04-90-54-36-99), holds a retrospective collection of the works of Yves Brayer (1907 -- 90), a figurative painter and Les Baux's most famous native son (he's buried in the village cemetery). He painted scenes of Italy, of Morocco, and, in Spain, of many bullfights, working mainly in shades of red, ocher, and black. Brayer also decorated the restored 17th-century La Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs, which stands close to the Church of St. Vincent, with frescoes of the Annunciation, the Nativity, and Christ in Majesty. The museum is open April to September daily from 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6:30pm; off-season hours are Wednesday to Monday from 10am to 12:30pm and 2 to 5:30pm (closed Jan to mid-Feb). Admission is 4€ for adults, 2.50€ for students and children 12 and under.

The Renaissance-era Hôtel de Manville, rue Frédéric-Mistral, functions today as the Mairie (Town Hall). Only its courtyard is open to visitors. The ancient town hall on place Louis Jou now contains the Musée des Santons (tel. 04-90-54-34-39), a collection of antique crêche figures. It's open April to October daily from 9am to 7pm, November to March daily from 9am to 5pm. In the Renaissance-era Hôtel Jean-de-Brion, rue Frédéric-Mistral (tel. 04-90-69-88-03 or 90-54-34-17), is the Fondation Louis Jou, which can be visited only by special arrangement. It has engravings and serigraphs by the artist. The 1569 Hôtel des Porcelles contains a collection of contemporary artists who have worked in Les Baux and in Provence.

A Drive Through Hell

Below Les Baux is a jagged and irregular gorge, Val d'Enfer (Valley of Hell). You can access the valley by D27 and D78G and drive through this bleak and rugged scenery. Centuries ago, caves in the gorge were inhabited by humans. The gorge is the source of many Provençal legends -- witches, sprites, and fairies are said to live in the caves.

On your way to the valley, you can stop at the Cathédrale d'Images (tel. 04-90-54-38-65; www.cathedrale-images.com), off Route du Val d'Enfer (D27), a kilometer (half-mile) north of the village, in a former quarry. Photographer Albert Plecy converted this dark, cavernous space of large, square limestone columns and high-arched ceilings into a three-dimensional palette for an interactive experience with frescoes of the Italian Renaissance. Forty-eight strategically placed projectors splash images from the frescoes in all directions: You might walk across a projection of a full fresco, while on the wall next to you a close-up of an infant's face from the scene is enlarged and displayed, and above you the dueling men in the back of the fresco are plucked out and brought into focus. The moving display, in synchronization with well-chosen musical pieces from the era, is 30 minutes long, though you can stay longer and watch the loop replay. It's open daily from 10am to 6pm; closed January 2 to February 8. Admission is 7.50€ for adults, 3.50€ for children 17 and under.