348km (188 nautical miles) NE of Piraeus
Roughly triangular Lesvos -- now called Mitilini in many Greek publications -- is the third-largest island in Greece, with a population of some 120,000. As a large, bustling island, it long failed to bother itself with attracting tourists but in recent years it has been developing itself as a destination. In particular, it has been promoting itself as the birthplace of Sappho, the ancient poet.
The three principal towns -- Mitilini, Molivos, and Eressos -- are near the corners of the triangle. Mitilini and Molivos are about as different as two towns on the same island could possibly be. Mitilini is a working port town low on sophistication or pretension, with little organized tourism and lots of local character. Molivos is a picture-postcard seaside village, a truly beautiful place, but in the summer it exists only for tourism. Due to its remote location, Eressos is a good destination for a day trip, but not a recommended base for touring the island.
Not to be missed are the Archaeological and Theophilos museums in Mitilini; the town of Mandamados and its celebrated icon (the east-coast road, between Mandamados and Mitilini, is the most scenic on the island); the remarkable, mile-long beach of Eressos; and the labyrinthine streets of Molivos's castle-crowned hill.
Getting around on Lesvos is somewhat complicated by the presence of two huge tear-shaped bays in the south coast, which splits the island at its center. Because bus schedules are not designed for day-trippers, this is one island where you'll definitely want a car to get around.
Sappho and Lesvos -- In recent years, Lesvos -- because of its associations with the poet Sappho (ca. 612 B.C.-?) -- has become a favorite destination of lesbians from many parts of the world. Although very little is known about Sappho's life, it is accepted that she was born here. It is also accepted that she was the leader of some sort of circle of young women; certainly some of her finest verses express warm feelings toward females. But it is not really clear that she was herself a lesbian -- she married and had a daughter. Little of her poetry survives but what there is has retained the admiration of readers and critics across the ages. So by all means, come to Lesvos in tribute to Sappho, but don't forget that the tribute that authors really want is that their works be read.
