Mayke Ame

On the southeast corner of the Barkhor circuit stands Lhasa's most enchanting eatery, Makye Ame, which can be translated as Holy Mother. This may be the first Tibetan chain restaurant -- they have two outlets in Beijing and another in Kunming. If it's chilly, take a seat on the second floor, with its comfy sofas and relaxing Tibetan folk music. On a sunny day, soak up the spectacle of the kora (circuit) from the third-floor balcony. There's a shiny new menu, but the trusted dishes are the same and include many excellent vegetarian choices; try the spinach-tofu ravioli smothered in tomato basil sauce, or the vegetable curry set with chapati.

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