For those that can find it—even taxi drivers have a difficult time locating the obscure side street it is situated on—Amor Amar has one of the most special atmospheres of any restaurant in Lima. Within a walled Barranco compound is a Republican-era mansion that holds an art gallery, an open-air bar with trendy pisco cocktails, and an exposed dining area with a canopy warmed by standing heaters when it gets chilly. The whole place feels like some secret compound for food and wine aficionados. As you might expect from the name, seafood is the specialty here, mostly classic Peruvian dishes with touches of the Mediterranean, though there are also whole-animal asados (slow-cooked meats) prepared in a brick oven.
- Nicholas Gill