Nikkei food, the natural fusion of Japanese and Peruvian, is having its moment in Lima and around the world. Maido and its talented chef Mitsuharu Tsumaru, aka "Micha," are at the epicenter of the movement. The minimalist, three-level space here is decorated with shoji screens that conceal several private rooms and lounges. It's not overly formal, with lots of wood and glass. While most Nikkei restaurants in Lima lean more traditional, Maido is innovative, incorporating Amazonian fish like paiche and combining national plates like tacu tacu with chaufa (fried rice) and crispy pork belly. Lovers of sushi, sashimi, and tiradito will find plenty on the menu to explore, though for those really expecting to be knocked off their feet, the elaborate tasting menus are the way to go. There's a superb wine list, as well as artisanal Peruvian beers.
- Nicholas Gill