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This is nothing less than one of the most incredible restaurant settings anywhere in the world, nestled within the compound of a 1,500-year-old adobe pyramid. The rustic atmosphere inside, with red walls and rough-hewn wood beams, is pleasant enough, but try to snag a seat on the covered terrace so you can peer out at the pre-Columbian structure as you eat. You'll find more exciting food elsewhere in town, though the contemporary criollo dishes like humitas verdes (tamales) and lomo saltado (stir-fried beef and potatoes) won't disappoint. Expect to be surrounded almost entirely by other tourists.  At night, the walkways and the pyramid complex are illuminated, and diners are welcome to tour the grounds after dinner.