For years, the most happening bar in Livingston has been Ubafu, 2 blocks west of Calle Principal, on the road to the cemetery (no phone), which has live Garífuna, punta, or reggae music most nights. Traditional Garífuna drum ensembles feature a variety of conga-style wooden drums with skin heads, but one of their more interesting percussion instruments is made from several turtle shells, which are strung together and worn by the drummer like a personal trap set. This is still my favorite bar; however, it's getting a run for its money from the new waterfront nightspot, Tropicool Disco (no phone). For a more formal presentation of Garífuna drumming and dancing, head to the Hotel Villa Caribe (tel. 502/2334-1818), which has presentations to accompany their dinner service several nights a week.
