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Sometimes, restaurants get it so right—from friendly and knowledgeable staff to unfussy surroundings (chalkboard, mirrors) to pure, clean, well-made food—that you wonder why they can’t all be this way. The menu, all a top value for the money, changes but the impeccable standards don’t: frequent standouts include whole lemon sole with samphire (an edible coastal plant) and artichokes, Brecon lamb, Gloucester Old Spot pork, elderflower sorbet, a continuous trickle of fresh-baked breads, and a wine list chosen with as much care as the fish and meat cuts. If there’s a downside, it’s that it will only take reservations for lunch, which means you risk missing out on dinner if you don’t come early. Or just sit at the tiny bar.