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Italians settled Soho in the 1940s, and before they decamped for the suburbs, they installed a set of mod, gleaming coffee bars and caffs. This straggler from 1949 is a haunt of slumming celebrities and artists, yet modest enough for the rest of us. While this institution is busy all day—making simple sandwiches, delivering pastries—it swells with revelers after midnight. Even Rome doesn’t have bars that steam, press, and shuffle coffee across such defiantly worn ‘50s linoleum with such gusto. “Like everything in this city that Londoners really enjoy, it reminds us of being abroad,” quipped the Guardian. Whatever; it practically leaks hipness.