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A white-hot table, Dabbous (the S is silent) shines through arty, crisp dishes using local and seasonal ingredients. The setting is kind of ugly, all concrete and exposed ducts, and the menu gives no hint of the inventiveness to follow, so the fun is putting yourself in Chef Ollie Dabbous’ hands and seeing what inventions he’s come up with: Coddled egg with smoked butter, then returned audaciously to the shell? Popcorn ice cream? Rather than over-salt or heavily spice, he’ll lightly char something or create a suspended emulsion of another thing. Downstairs in Oskar’s Bar, cocktails are made with homemade infusions, there’s a shortened menu of barbecued meat. More, please. Reservations required.