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Here, the people behind the seminal Eagle present the essence of gastropub cuisine in the more convenient environs of Covent Garden. There’s a pub feel—scuffed wood floors, burgundy walls, sconces capped with fringed mini-shades—but here, waiters come to you. And how: On one visit, I had no fewer than five servers attend to me, and one of them voluntarily gave me a free Negroni cocktail out of sheer conviviality. The slow-cooked dishes are clean and reassuringly ingredient-proud. Samples (they change) include Old Spot (a breed of pig) pork chops with sticky shallots, griddled quail with celery salt; and lamb’s shoulder cooked for 7 hours and accompanied by gratin dauphinoise—that one feeds four, which hints at the social atmosphere encouraged here. The Cellar Bar, open until midnight, serves the cold dishes from the same menu.