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It’s packed for good reasons: First, the food brilliantly adapts Middle Eastern dishes to sensitive London palates. Spectacular lamb schwarma is tender as brisket and spiked with pomegranate and mint, and is served in a little pot with hot and soft pita. Chicken dumplings come in a broth that smells like love. The “strawberry spliff” dessert proves that berries, filo, mint, and olive oil go well together. The other reason it’s packed is it’s knee-knockingly tiny: 20 table seats and 4 in the window, so make a reservation or miss out on this assured, sometimes revelatory meal.