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Smartly turned out waiters prep you with so many strange fish-eating implements that your place setting starts to look like a workstation at Santa’s workshop. Such presentational flourishes are appropriate to theatreland, where this has been a bistro-style classic for years, and although prices aren’t generous, portions and quality are. The least expensive main dish option, fish pie, is fortunately its trademark, but there are plenty of other choices, from shrimp-and-scallop burgers to a delectable lemon sole, plus a changing slate of game and meats for the fish-averse. For all the folderol, children are welcomed. The adjoining horseshoe-shaped Oyster Bar (same hours without a mid-afternoon break) does a limited menu that includes a velvety rich crab bisque with cognac (£8.50). Reservations recommended.