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There are always newcomers in Mayfair hoping to capture the vanity crowd, and trendy styles with fresh young chefs rise and burn out, but Le Gavroche remains the top choice for classical French cuisine. Its leader, Michel Roux, Jr., is the son of the chef who founded the restaurant in 1967. The famous cheese soufflé is still there after all these years. Also on the menu: lobster with lemongrass and coconut-infused jus, roast suckling pig, and roast Goosnargh duck, plus desserts including apricot and Cointreau soufflé. The cheese board is exemplary. It's all beautifully presented and served with style. The wine list is a masterclass in top French wines, and is kind to the purse as well on lesser-known varieties. It all takes place in a comfortable, conventional basement dining room that may be too old-fashioned for some, but is endearingly classic to those who have cherished this place for a half century.