advertisement

Hand-in-hand with the gastropub trend is “nose-to-tail” eating. That’s when your chef doesn’t waste a single part of the animal, resulting in tastes that were commonplace to his agrarian English forefathers (heart, cockscomb, marrow, whole pigeon) but are new to most North American tongues. Most places charge, um, an arm and leg for it, but you can sample it at this lower-priced offshoot of the influential St. John restaurant, which in the 1990s brought back British cooking in a big way. Walls are simple white, chairs are plain wood, and the kitchen staff is serious about good food, no matter its form. Experience dishes like cold lamb with chicory and anchovy, smoked sprat (sardines) with horseradish, and laver bread (made with seaweed) with oats and bacon. A meal here can be an adventure (ever eaten dandelion?). Reservations recommended.