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By now, the gastropub trend is so widespread the term is meaningless, but foodies note: It began here in 1991 (or so most agree). Behind the bar of a bare-to-the-wood former saloon, casual chefs prepare a changing selection of about a dozen flavorful and thoughtful dishes a day, from the likes of pork loin salad to pan roasted sole to the house specialty, the insidiously spicy Bife Ana steak sandwich dripping with marinated garlic and onion. Tables are shared, furniture reassuringly shabby and mismatched, and foodie crowds reliably in force—come early to ensure your share. Order at the bar and get a beer while you’re up there, because here, the food’s the thing, and they’ll bring your meal to you in their own sweet time. The point is to sit back and enjoy.