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The beloved M&S is back on top as the country’s favorite mid-level department store for good-looking clothing staples. Its own-brand clothing, once shoddy and ill-fitting, has been re-envisioned as affordable riffs on well-tailored fashions, and customers are drifting back to enjoy the good buys. M&S is particularly beloved for its underwear, but its crowning achievement is its giant food halls ★★★ (usually tucked underneath the store but sometimes a stand-alone shop called Simply Food), which sell an astonishing array of prepared meals, soups and sandwiches, and well-selected yet inexpensive wines. M&S is a national treasure, with nothing like it in other countries, and it’s about time the English remembered that.