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After 30 years at the top of the heap, Wolfgang Puck—arguably the first celebrity chef—revamped not only his home restaurant but the entire menu in late 2012. The newly contemporary space includes a massive glass wall revealing thousands of wine bottles, a glassed-in patio with twinkly lights and a retractable roof, and an open kitchen. Simpler preparations have an Asian edge, a focus on market-driven local ingredients, more small dishes for sharing, and a new, eight-course farm-to-table menu—all while adhering to a European-style attention to service and refinement of details such as Limoges dinnerware. You can still get a tried-and-true dry-aged steak with Bordelaise, but other options include grilled rack of lamb with falafel macaroons and harissa pepper aioli or even spherified basil “caviar.” The 30,000-bottle wine collection, of course, survived the revamp. The rejuvenated Spago still sets the standard.