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Run by the same family since 1945 in the middle of Beverly Hills’ “Golden Triangle,” this L.A. original is famous for its spicy hot dogs (which director Nora Ephron declared she’d choose for her last meal) and its unique double-baked rye bread (crisp on the outside, soft on the inside). The operating princple seems to be “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” where the Naugahyde-booth interior is concerned, but food mavens will appreciate the certified Angus beef that goes into the corned beef, brisket, short ribs and burgers, and the wild smoked salmon. This is an under-the-radar celebrity favorite, but the mother-hen waitresses don’t seem to notice whether you’re a big name or a just tourist hungering for chopped liver, potato pancakes and borscht.

-Christine Delson