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Carnivores are in their element here. From the 40-day dry-aged New York strip to pasture-raised veal Delmonico to Japanese Wagyu market choices, there’s not a mediocre meat in the house (though I have to question whether spaghetti and meatballs is the best use for Kobe beef). You choose the rub, ranging from straightforward tri peppercorn to adventurous bacon jam, and the sauces. Sides sold separately punish the wallet, but hand-cut crispy fries and chipotle lime corn, among others, are a challenge to resist. Like the menu, the deor strays seriously from traditional steakhouse atmosphere. Gluten-free menus (which should be a natural for any steakhouse) don’t subtract many items from the regular menu. Note: A second Boa Steakhouse is on West Hollywood’s Sunset Strip at 9200 W. Sunset Blvd. (tel. 310/278-2050).

-Christine Delsol